battle harbour national historic district
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Myself and my husband spent one night in Battle Harbour. We were the only guests on the island that night, and we were spoiled rotten by the staff. Jim Jones, the skipper of the boat that transported us there, is from Battle Harbour, and he gave us a fantastic 2 1/2 hour tour of the fishing premises and other attractions in the community. We enjoyed gourmet meals, and a beautiful room with a claw foot soaker tub, king sized bed and a magnificent view. The weather was cold and wet, but the staff lit the wood stove for us and made everything cosy. It was very moving for both of us to see a community with a very old fishing premises perfectly preserved, as if the fishery were still ongoing. Going to Battle Harbour is a bit like stepping into a time machine..you can experience what an authentic fishing community was like while enjoying the lap of luxury! It is a unique, authentic experience, one I recommend to everyone.
My wife and I spent two wonderful nights and parts of three days in the luxury that can be found in the accommodations and service at Battle Harbour. As luck would have it, we were the only guests in the Battle Harbour Inn, and got upgraded to the Admiral Byrd room. It is difficult to relate the accommodations we enjoyed with the life the locals would have led when this was the "Capital of Labrador" at the height of the cod fishery. Delicious local fare, creatively cooked and presented by Daphne and Myrtle.One overnight is not enough time to properly experience the expansive settlement and the island on which it is situated. Three overnights might be too much, but we wish we had tried it so we could report on that. All the staff are friendly and attentive. Battle Harbour is worth the drive, and the experience worth every penny.
We had a great visit to Battle Harbour. At first we thought the price was kind of high but considering the boat trip, tour, meals and wonderful accommodations, it was a very good value. Very interesting and historic place and the guide (Jim ... also the skipper of the boat) was great. The tour was only supposed to be an hour and a half but he spent over 2 1/2 hours with us. The meals were delicious and all of the staff were helpful and friendly. We will be back! Our only disappointment was that the lounge didn't open in the evening but we were the only two guests there so I guess that's understandable.
Our two-night stay in Battle Harbour was the highlight of our recent trip to the Canadian Maritimes. The beautifully preserved and restored buildings full of artifacts from Battle Harbour's heyday as Canada's cod-fishing capital, the knowledgeable and friendly staff, and the delicious meals featuring local specialties made our visit edifying and memorable. We also enjoyed hiking on Battle Harbour Island and across the "tickle"--exploring abandoned fishing villages, tracking an arctic fox, picking bakeapples, examining a plane-crash site, and savoring the beautiful scenery. Highly recommended!
Uplifting adventure that brings the past and the trials and struggles that people endured into the present. The exbits are exquist and the knowledge of the quides are a gold mine of information especially Jim Jones ( unbeleivable treasure because he grew up at Battle Harbour). Sadly to say we do regret only have stayed one night. We are already planning our next visit with at least 2 + nights just to absorb fully the total ambient nature of Battle Harbour.
An overnight stay in Battle Harbour is quite expensive, but in my estimation, well worth the price. In fact, our stay was the highlight of our 2 week Newfoundland & Labrador vacation. The boat ride out from St. Mary's Harbour provides a close up look at some of the rugged islands that are situated in this part of the Labrador Sea. I'm sure the crossing can be rough at times, but we were blessed with calm seas and warm and sunny conditions. Our skipper stopped to chat with some local fisherman on the way out to the site, and to being a large cod fish on board for his dinner. The village is very picturesque, with most of the buildings that dot the hillside having been painstakingly restored. Some of the buildings were moved across the tickle from Great Caribou Island, and the tickle provides the harbour. Upon arrival we were shown to our quarters. We stayed in the newly built ( but in the old style) Merchants Building, and our room was well appointed and comfortable. After a simple, but well prepared lunch we were provided a tour of the historic site. The tour I felt was overly long, but very interesting. All the staff we met actually lived on the island when it was a working fishing "room", and thus the stories they told of life during that time was authentic and quite fascinating. After lunch we were free to tour the island. I hiked to the top of the island to visit the old Marconi radio towers and visit the site of a plane crash that occurred almost 40 years ago. Dinner was not elaborate, but once again, very well prepared and satisfying. After dinner we took in a fantastic sunset, and then enjoyed the tranquility of the site. A bar is available for those who wish to relax with an after dinner drink. The stars were brilliant in this dark sky area. All in all, I found the whole experience very restful, and informative. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable about life on island. Not a lot has changed here in 200 years, and visitors get to glimpse life during the time when the site was the salt cod capital of Labrador. After our breakfast, we enjoyed the boat ride back to St. Mary's Harbour. An absolutely amazing experience.
If you enjoy getting away from it all and having a simpler vacation spot this place is for you. Yet, it is very educational and the accommodations and restaurant meals rival anything you would find any where in the world.The people at Battle Harbour went overboard to make sure we felt welcomed and were enjoying our retreat. Our beds were very comfortable, the rooms are excellently decorated, especially the great big comforters made by local women! Our night at the bar included a sing song of Newfoundland and old favourites music played on the guitar by a local resident. This guy did it all for free just to entertain us! You can't beat that! We were taken on a boat tour of a nearby settlement, which was very enjoyable….we did have great weather while there.We very much enjoyed walking around and exploring an old airplane crash site and the old cemeteries and the church.You really get a sense of how hard everyone had to work. Grenfell had a clinic/residence here! School children should come here just to learn how the fishery was conducted years ago and the impact it's closure has had on Newfoundland and Labrador and Canada for that matter.
The cost of staying two nights (the minimum recommended) initially made us uncomfortable, but proved to be our best part of our wonderful 15-day visit to Nfld and Labrador. The Battle Harbour experience made so many other things we had been discovering about Nfld come together: the isolation, the reverence of Dr. Grenfell, the effects of forced resettlement and changes to the fishing industry. Through the tour conducted by someone who grew up on the island (twinkling at favourite childhood memories), museum-quality displays open in original buildings at all hours, and simply exploring the small island, we could feel in our bones what life must have been like just decades ago. When staff talked about the waves during November storms, we shivered. When the ladies in the kitchen patiently showed me how to bake bread, I was warmed. And during quiet times we could just gaze out the window at homes still used during the summer and imagine what it would have been like to raise a family there year round. It’s important to understand that this is not a resort. There will be no tables heavy with food waiting for you at all hours. Meals are served family style, portions are adequate. There is a bar in the social area, Wifi, and your luggage will be taken to your room by a smiling man on an ATV. Instead, you are immersed in an upscale version of island life. Rooms are big, beds are extremely comfortable and covered with quilts made by women in the area. The two residential buildings have well stocked coffee stations. Your visit starts with a hearty handshake, continues to a group lunch and extensive tour, and shifts into do-whatever-you-want. Another couple went cod fishing, which I wish we had done, but at the time we were weary and chose to read in the enclosed porch. Apparently there are plans to establish walks with a naturalist. As you walk about the site, you find yourself nodding to staff who you had come to know, almost as if you were now neighbours living on a rock you share in the Labrador Sea. To get to Battle Harbour, your best option is arriving at Blanc Sablon Quebec, just west of Labrador, by ferry. This will likely be the cheapest ferry you’ll find, thanks to heavy government subsidies. $33 one way for a couple with a car! The schedule differs from day to day and could impact your own schedule, so check details carefully. We took an 11am ferry, landing around 12:30, and drove through panoramic vistas to Red Bay, the closest we could find accommodation to Battle Harbour. Enjoyed touring the historic site. The drive to Mary’s Harbour, for the 11am passenger ferry to Battle Harbour, took us along a gravel highway expected to be under construction for the next two years. Be sure to ask at the diner in Red Bay about what time they recommend you leave the next morning so you’re not late. If late, Battle Harbour staff will likely send a speed boat for you, but you’ll have lost a good part of your day, the ride will be rougher, and you’ll be feeling mighty guilty. Instead, show up early so you can visit with other guests, relax and look for dolphins on the trip over.We made sure we filled the tank before leaving Newfoundland, so we didn’t see the price of gas, but noticed it was never posted at the few gas stations we passed. There was no need to advertise as you really have no option, so we imagine it would have been dear. I recommend you do the same. Bottom line? Some money is simply worth spending, and we were going to the northern peninsula or Nfld in any case, this was a simple addition. Battle Harbour stirred our hearts and our souls in an unexpected way, and we'll always consider it a highlight of our travels around the world.
A botanist friend and I went to the Northen Peninsula in July and then to Battle Harbour in Labrador. The island was a wonderful experience, and I want to return soon. Peter and all of the staff are working very hard to keep this remote fishing station and former Grenfell Mission site as authenic as possible, and still keep it attractive to a broad range of visitors. We found directions to the ferry in Mary's Bay a bit confusing, but made our connections. Our luggage was handled for us, the trip to the island was in pleasant weather, and we were warmly welcomed at the wharf. There was coffee and tea available in our accommodation - a welcome sight! As were the comfortable chairs.Our bedroom at the Inn had an iceberg located just outside one of our bedroom windows. I was impressed with the new bathroom, the thick towels, and good mattresses. More hooks for clothing would be a good idea, especially if there is rainy weather. Shortly after arrival we were given an interpretive tour by a local person; this added a favourable dimension to the visit. I was allowed to "go back in time" and play a hymn on the workable pump organ in the old church. The island itself was a joy ! No cars! No ATVs except for a staff vehicle for moving luggage.I wished there were no internet, but no escape from that. Rare plants abound. We found some Breyas and wished we had more than two days so we could do a proper survey. We saw Arctic Fox, whales, seals, and a few birds. The meals were taken at camp style tables which made for good conversations, and a cash bar was available. I would like to recommend changes to the meals. They were an attempt at high end. I would much have preferred good country/camp cooking - true to the area. We did not have a single fish meal in the 2 days, and as a hearty eater I found the servings too small. I wished for the food of my childhood - thick slices of oatmeal brown bread, baked beans, thick bacon, turnips, potatoes, carrots, onions, pot herbs from the fields, cabbage slaw, moose meat, deer meat, hare, lamb, flounder, haddock, halibut, cod and lobster. Thick puddings with sauces, local berries, jams, preserves. I wish! Luckily we had snacks with us. However, I know that the staff and all connected with the island are learning as they go, and I expect there will be improvements. There are excellent resources available on cooking from the land and sea.Mostly I enjoyed the peace and quiet of Battle Harbour. However, local music, card games, ring toss games, darts, storytelling evenings and guided tours to the historical graveyards would all have been appreciated. I am giving a good rating to Battle Harbour because it was such a unique and special place, and it will grow. I recommend a visit of 3-4 days or longer.
This year my wife and I travelled from Tasmania, Australia to Canadian on a 6 week holiday. As well as travelling through the majestic Canadian Rockies we travelled to Newfoundland and Labrador.We took the ferry from St, Barbe, Newfoundland to Blanc Sablon, where my wife and I and 2 other couples were picked up by Carmen Hancock, manager and tour operator, from ‘Tour Labrador.’ Carmen Hancock drove us through some remarkable Labrador tundra country, to Mary’s Harbour.We had a wonderful trip out to Battle Harbour onboard the vessel ‘Iceberg Hunter’ and she lived up to her name as the journey was punctuated by some fantastic iceberg viewing.The restoration of the original fishing houses and buildings is still a work in progress. The Battle Harbour Historic Trust really deserve to be congratulated for the authentic preservation work. Local people, many of whom have long term family links to the site, are employed on the site. They are genuinely passionate about the history and integrity of the Island and offer a very special personal touch to visits to the area. The meals were of a lovely home cooked quality and considering the remoteness of this location were surprisingly good. I can only suggest that now the new kitchen and dining area are complete, they will be even better placed to offer a more extensive menu. The interpretation of the site was just superb, giving guests the feeling of stepping back in time and leaving a lasting impression and appreciation for the hardships endured by fishermen and their families. I have been to numerous historic sites, and Battle Harbour is one of the best, authentic sites I have ever visited.Accommodation, for tourists at the Battle Harbour Historic Site, is in refurbished original historic buildings. All rooms have wonderful views and are now beautifully refurbished with en-suite bathrooms. The oldest wooden buildings date back to the 1770s, making many of the refurbishments all the more remarkable.We stayed in a room at the Battle Harbour Inn and enjoyed afternoon drinks, by the wood fire, with the other members of our group, in the common lounge room of the Inn. The views, walks, history, authenticity and the remoteness of the site are only surpassed by wonderful company, friendly staff, stunning sunsets, whales and magnificent icebergs.Everyone in our tour group were totally enchanted by the Battle Harbour experience: I would go back in a heart beat and thoroughly recommend, to anyone who enjoys remote places, who are planing a trip to Labrador that they treat themselves to a tour to magical, historic Battle Harbour.Battle Harbour won my heart and etched a special place in my soul and really helped make a wonderful Canadian Holiday into the travel experience of a lifetime, memories of which I will cherish forever and hopefully I might see you there if I am fortunate enough to travel this way again.
We spent 3 days at Battle Harbour in July, 2014, renting two rooms in the Merchant Building. Our rooms were attractively furnished with lovely views. There was a washing machine we could use, which was greatly appreciated. The food was excellent and we loved the cooks! Our last day, a member of the Sharecroppers stayed the night and sang for us. However, this is not a place to visit if you have trouble figuring out how to entertain yourself. We took walks around the island every day (some days more than once), took a boat ride out to visit an iceberg close at hand, and had the staff transport us to Caribou Island where we took a long wonderful hike. We appreciated having time to chill out, read and review photographs. I did not have an opportunity to visit the Spa, which I believe would also have been enjoyable. The staff at Battle Harbour are mainly local and love the place. Hopefully, you will too!
Battle Harbour is, by most standards, hard to get to, and somewhat expensive. For us it was worth every penny and hour spent, but the unique nature of the place may not be for everyone. The operation must, by virtue of its remoteness and necessity to succeed financially, walk a fine line in balancing the preservation and interpretation of a very important part of Labrador's history with the demands of travelers who can afford to visit. I believe the Trust is right on track, and salute all those involved in keeping Battle Harbour not only alive, but vibrant.We are familiar with interpretation in general, and give high marks both to the guided tour soon after arrival, and the panels in the buildings and on the grounds. The tour isn't going to be fast, and at least in part may be improved or not by the questions asked by visitors. We found that spending a half day later in our visit to return to the buildings and carefully read the panels really helped set in our minds how the salt cod fishery worked in the mid 19th century, and Battle Harbour's lead role during that period.During our three night stay, however, we spent more time rambling the island than learning about its history. This was true in spite of one full day of dense fog, and another day of half fog and half rain. The geology is quite spectacular, and, of course, well exposed over the considerable portion of land that is free of vegetation. Intrusive pegmatites have been severely deformed and are contorted into fanciful, elongated shapes best described as squiggles; later intrusive dikes cut across both the old metamorphic rock and the pegmatites. A very useful summary of the geology is available, written and illustrated for lay people, and which provides a fine excuse for exploring the back side of the island.Almost as interesting to us was the flora, with a wide variety of flowers in bloom, and a veritable buffet of berries everywhere. New to us were bakeapples (also called cloudberries) which were at peak ripeness in mid-August. The marine tundra along the Labrador coast is beautiful up close, with color and texture and diversity to spare.Some random observations: The people of Labrador may be the world leaders in friendliness and hospitality, and Battle Harbour is the pinnacle of that wonderful trait. The food is indeed very good (think of where you are!) and at every one of our nine meals we had great conversations with other visitors from all over. The boat ride out to the island is on a small boat, but one that has an interior cabin if the weather is rough (if the seas are even moderate, it may corkscrew around enough to be uncomfortable for some; also, if you have the chance, Calvin, the crewman, is a wealth of information about life in Labrador). The Peary Room in the Inn is terrific, with windows facing the tickle, the rocky southern end of the island, and, to the east, its spine; and then to look out on the other buildings, the downstairs porch, open to all, is perfect, especially with a warm fire in the woodstove in the common area. Trails are just right, with enough signage, though the island is so small that navigation, even in the fog, is easy, and strolling along the rocks is fine as well. The store offers a variety of what we thought were appropriate items to fuel memories of Battle Harbour, and the bar upstairs is another place to meet people and fall into long conversations with interesting folks. Not all buildings on the island are owned by the Trust; some are private dwellings that are signed as such, but in general they fit in seamlessly. I would strongly, in fact, as strongly as possible, recommend at least three days at Battle Harbour, and more if you can. Getting there is certainly difficult enough to make a one day taste, while better than nothing, pretty frustrating, I would think.Lastly, if you go to Battle Harbour, don't miss Red Bay, which is right on the way. The rest of the "Big Land" (Labrador) requires a little more adventurous travel, but we found it compelling. The drive from Baie-Comeau, Quebec up to Labrador City is a bit of a test, the Trans Labrador Highway to Happy Valley-Goose Bay a breeze, route 510 to the Cartwright junction is all gravel, but easy, and the rest of 510 south to Red Bay was very slow, although paving north some distance from Red Bay is apparently scheduled for next year. Even more so than Battle Harbour, the trip to Nain and back from Happy Valley-Goose Bay on the coastal boat the Northern Ranger is not for everyone, but it is sure is a unique, and for us, an extremely enjoyable five day experience.
Our trip to Battle Harbour was the highlight of our trip to Newfoundland and Labrador. We were concerned about the price quoted at first but when we figured all it covered it was not out of line at all, plus it was a fantastic experience. Jim, the tour guide had grown up on the island and naturally was knowledgeable about the history of the fishing industry there. He shared many an interesting story with us! We roamed over the island taking in the wonderful views, including an iceberg off in the distance! We stayed in the Merchant House and were delighted with our room, it was spacious and had a lovely view. The meals, included in the price, were excellent. We only stayed one night and wished we had booked for longer as we had more we wanted to do there. It is a wonderful place, not to be missed!
A piece of Labrador history has been saved and can now be experienced as a 5 star resort. Sound intriguing? If you've come to the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland you owe it to yourself to take the ferry across to Labrador and spend some time in Battle Harbor. It is a unique destination that is worth making the effort to visit.Battle Harbor was once the salt cod capital of the Labrador coast. In the late 1800s thousands of men fished here either on schooners sailing up and down the coast or from small boats from the shore. It was a small year round fishing outport until the late 1960s. It was then a seasonal fishing village until the cod moratorium closed the fishing grounds and the village was abandoned in 1992. The Canadian government purchased it and spent 8 years on the initial restoration. Although it used to be accessible for day visitors or people who wanted to stay and bring their own provisions, the emphasis now is to be a remote destination resort with "upscale - for the Labrador coast" accommodations.I spent 2 nights in the Constable Forward cottage. (Richard Forward was the last Newfoundland ranger stationed on the island in 1949 just before confederation.) A cute 20 x 22 cabin with ultra modern bathroom, comfy queen bed with big comforter and it's own little jotul woodstove !! There was a nice fire going when I arrived on drizzly day. The food was excellent, and the prices include 3 meals in the newly renovated dining area that looks out onto the dock. The former dining area has now been converted into a lounge (with WIFI) where you can go before dinner or in the evening and have a drink and hang out. The staff is extremely friendly and courteous. They will transport your luggage to your sleeping area, assist you in starting your wood stove if need be, and are very attentive to meeting everyone's food preferences. (For example i requested no beef). There are even spa amenities, and I treated myself to a back facial and scalp massage. Ahhh... All the buildings are relatively close together. It was maybe a 100 feet from my cottage to the lounge and 300 feet to the dining area. There is a small walking path around the island - takes about 30 minutes and brings you up to the site of the old Marconi tower, the site of an old plane crash from the 20s and a couple of small cemeteries. Many of the buildings have been restored with interpretive exhibits that are informative and well done. (Your first nights lodging also includes a tour of the island after lunch on the day you arrive.) This is the site where Perry had his new conference announcing his trip to the North Pole and you can visit the exact spot. (Of course it is somewhat controversial if he truly made it all the way there.) Besides the island there are other things to do and explore: whale watching, bread baking, hiking on Great Caribou Island, which is just a few hundred feet "across the tickle" from Battle Harbor.If you are looking for something a little off the beaten path... you will not be disappointed!Things to know if you go..The ferry from St Barbe to Blanc Sablon runs on Newfoundland time from both directions, so just stay on Newfoundland timeThe road is paved to Red Bay - takes about 1.5 hours. Definitely worth spending 3 or 4 hours or more there. The road from Red Bay to Mary's Harbor is in the process of being widened and paved. (There was no road before 2000.) As of end 2014 the widening from Red Bay to Mary's Harbor is to be completed, and paving should take place in 2015. Even on the gravel road my Pruis made it through in a torrential rain storm. It is 90 km from Red Bay to MH and takes about 1.5 hours to drive. If there is construction taking place you might want to give yourself extra time if you are traveling in the morning from Red Bay to catch the ferry.There is one boat per day to Battle Harbor and leaves Mary's Harbor at 11 AM. There is a hotel, the RIverlodge, in Mary's Harbor. It also has a restaurant and a continental breakfast is included in the price. Give yourself at least 2 nights at Battle Harbor. You could easily spend 3 or 4 nights to get the full effect and to leave some leeway with the weather.It seems expensive, but when you consider the excellent meals, cozy accommodations, boat ride over and back, and tour, it is very reasonable. If it is heavy weather and you susceptible to seasickness you might want to have some dramamine or gravel on board for the 75 min boat ride out to the island. Bring warm clothes and rain gear. You very well might need them. (I was glad to have my long underwear and big rubber boots.)
We sailed into Battle Harbour in July this summer and it was like sailing into a dream. The site is stunning and being among the bergs incredible. We were helped with docking by a couple of workers at the site...there isn't a lot of dock space since the main wharf is in disrepair so that was very helpful. We were able to get power hook-up, do laundry and get showers (all huge benefits when cruising in this area). We went to the dining room on one evening and though the meal wasn't spectacular (some local touches would have been great) we hard a wonderful evening. It was a communal dining experience and our table was very gregarious with much socializing. There was a fire on the beach at the far end of the island for our group which was something one of the group asked about and it was no problem to arrange. It seemed logical to have it away from all the buildings as there is no fire dep't there.We didn't stay in any of the accommodations but they all looked immaculate and cozy in a cottage style...love the painted floors!I'm spreading the positive word!